Teaching Your Child How to Draw

When children show their first inclinations toward artistic talent, parents can sometimes go overboard — the refrigerator engulfed in drawings of rainbow scribbles and happy sunshines, framed doodles of stick figures hanging over the fireplace. You’d be hard pressed to find a person around these parts who wouldn’t encourage the budding artistic talent of a child, yet you’ll find thousands of opinions on the best methods for honing young creativity.

Jean Van’t Hul, a mother of two young daughters and creator of The Artful Parent, recently wrote an interesting post about her child’s newfound love of drawing. Ever since her daughter, Maia, learned how to draw a bird at school, she’s been drawing the creature the same way, line by line. Hul felt torn: should she give her daughter what she knew would be a well-received how-to drawing book, or should she seek out more natural methods? After opening her blog post up to comments, Hul found varied answers. Some parents felt step-by-step instruction gives confidence to a young artist, while others feel it’s inhibiting and too formulaic.

Though she made a decision, Hul still remains ambivalent, as documented in her follow-up blog post. Perhaps it’s not wholly possible to gauge the effects such drawing tools have on us, but they certainly play a huge part in our upbringing. As a child, I was obsessed with Ed Emberley’s step-by-step drawing books, which are ingrained in my memory. He taught me how to draw witches, cats, trucks and snakes. Yet for all the hours I pored over his books and practiced each step, my drawing style today has no trace of Emberly’s influence. Still, the question is a powerful one: should children be guided, step-by-step through their early artistic development, or should they be given free range to create without instruction?

Story by  chaps676 - Published on Dec 22, 2011 in Read

Oil Painting Tips For Beginners

A few tips on ways to make the oil painting experience easier, cleaner and less costly and wasteful.

Use washing up liquid to clean oil paint off yourself.

 


Remember that you don’t need to use harsh White Spirit to get paint smudges off your hands. Washing up liquid (detergent) will work just as well. You could also buy these specially formulated, non-toxic wipes and soap to do the job 
(Above: Colourfull Art Wipes and Master’s Soap)

Wipe your brushes before immersing them.

You’ll find that using Artists’ White Spirit or turpentine to dilute your colours and, particularly, DIY store White Spirit to clean your brushes in between colours, can get expensive. The liquids will quickly get muddy from the paint and eventually will be too saturated with paint, and no longer usable. To slow this process, wipe each brush on an old rag or piece of kitchen paper before you put it in the spirits, to get off the worst excess of paint.

Recycle your turps and White Spirit.

This is a way to make your spirits last much, much longer. When you come back to your painting ready to start work again, take a look at your jars of spirits. If you have left it overnight you will see that the paint sediment has sunk to the bottom, leaving clear liquid on top. It may be a little yellowy, but will be perfectly good for diluting any colour that isn’t very pale or of course for cleaning brushes with. Gently tip the clear liquid on the top of the jar into another container - straining it through a coffee filter or piece of kitchen roll if you like to refine it further. Throw away the paint sediment left on the bottom of your jar and pour your reserved spirits back in. 

You can even keep three jars on the go - leave the liquid you’ve skimmed off for a night and then follow the process again transferring it to another jar. 

Use a ‘tear-off’ palette and save yourself having to scrape and clean of old, dried paint.

But to make each page last longer, use your palette knife to scrape off any patches of muddy paint you don’t need any more, and give it a wipe with a piece of kitchen paper dipped in White Spirit. Otherwise you’ll find that you quickly run out of space on your palette.

Keep dust off your painting.

One problem that can occur is that dust tends to settle on a painting that’s left out to dry and sticks to the paint. It’s better therefore to prop your painting up to dry rather than leaving it flat. You could also buy one or two sheets of ‘foamboard’ or ‘foamcore’ from an art shop (below - it costs about £5-7 per sheet) and make yourself a flattish box just deep enough to contain a painting. Put the top on overnight and this will keep nearly all dust off your painting. Foamboard is ideal for such a purpose as it’s easy to cut with a steel rule and craft knife and it’s as light as a feather. Use PVA or wood glue to stick it together or just pin it with dressmakers’ pins.

Don’t squeeze too much paint out onto your palette initially.

Remember that colours like reds and blues tend to go an awful long way in a mixture - I’ve noticed that these are the colours I seem to waste most of. But out a tiny dab at first, and you can always add more as and when you need to.

Store mixtures of paint in miniature jars with water on top.

 

If you’ve mixed up a very large batch of a colour and want to keep it for a while, clean out a miniature jam pot or other condiment, and scrape the paint into it. If the paint doesn’t reach the top of the jar, add a layer of water which will stop any air from getting to the paint and beginning the oxidization process. You can just pour this off when you are ready to start painting with it again.

How to Use Oil Pastels

Things You’ll Need

  • oil pastels
  • drawing paper
  • blending stick
  • turpentine and paintbrush
  • scraping tool


Oil pastels are tools that you can use to draw colorful pictures. Oil pastels may look like crayons, but they produce results that are much smoother, brighter and easier to blend than crayons. Once you have your oil pastels, you can begin to make dynamic art. You just need to learn how to get the most out of using them


  • Get rich, thick color by building up layers of oil pastel on paper. Start by putting in very light amounts of dark colored oil pastel. This dark color should be barely visible, but it should also fill the general area where you plan to put your figure on the paper. Keep adding different colors, a little at a time. As your layers build up, the color will be richer and you can blend the colors more and more.

  • Scrape away extra color. Once you have many layers of oil pastel on your paper, you can remove some of this color by taking a scraping tool and pushing away some of the top layers of color. This will let you remove colors you don’t want and expose some of the layers beneath. This can also help you to create texture as you draw.

  • Blend colors together. Aside from building up layers of oil pastel, you can blend colors in other ways. You can use your fingers to push the oil pastel around your paper. You can use an artist’s blending stick to blend different oil pastel colors on paper. You can also use a paintbrush with a small amount of turpentine. The turpentine will dissolve your oil pastel, and then you can blend colors together as if they were paint.

  • Draw in small details using a blending stick to get more control. Oil pastels are generally pretty fat tools that do not form good sharp points. If you want to draw small details, you can take a blending stick, and remove some of the color from your oil pastel. Then use your blending stick to apply little bits of oil pastel where you want them.



  • Visit water colour artist Matthew Palmer’s Facebook page with more tints and tips….makes an interesting read too!

    Watercolour painting has always been his passion, and he has been painting seriously for 20 years. he now has his own studio based at his home where he can just emerse himself in to his chosen subject. He lives in the small mining village of Langwith (Derbyshire), where he was brought up and over the years, has painted all the local collieries. His busy schedules means he currently teaches over 150 people per week at his six watercolour classes, these have been established since 1999. Over the years Matthew has held many personal exhibitions, along with participating in several art shows. His key areas of expertise are working with students, art groups giving talks and demonstrations and working with children in the local area at historic places such as Creswell Crags 

    Matthews paintings are best noted for the amazing attention to detail and the wide range of subjects he covers. LANDSCAPE, STILL LIFE AND ANIMALS. 

    EXAMPLES OF MATTHEW’S WORK CAN BE VIEWED AT HIS UNIQUE ONLINE GALLERIES. PLEASE CLICK ON THIS LINK FOR FURTHER INFORMATION.

    Hints, Tips & Techniques for Pastels - Fixatives & Framing

    Once your piece is created it is important to store or display it correctly. 

    Making the Most of Fixative

    Pastel pictures are fragile as the particles on the paper are not surrounded by binder. A coat or two of fixative will give that little bit of protection, saving the picture from smudging in a portfolio or if brushed against by mistake.

    A light coat of fixative will also help to stop pastel dust sticking onto the glass once the picture is framed. A coating of fixative improves the lightfastness of pastels, this is particularly recommended for any colours which are ‘B’ rated. Too much fixative however will cause considerable colour change to a pastel picture as the fixative wets out the pigment.  

    Using aerosol fixative:

    • Use at room temperature for an even spray
    • The fixative spray should be used in a well ventilated room
    • Shake the can before use
    • Keep picture horizontal or slightly tilted
    • Hold can 25 - 30 cm from your work
    • For an even coating, start the spray at the side of the work and spray from top to bottom
    • Apply light coats only, to minimise colour change

    Avoiding Colour Change

    Some styles of pastel work look best without fixative and some artists just don’t like working with it. Here are some methods which will reduce the fragility of unfixed pictures;

    • Use pastel board, a coated board which holds the pastel better than paper.
    • Use heavy weight water colour paper, so the work flexes less as it is moved around.
    • Apply Clear Gesso Base as a pastel primer to paper. The effect will be less coarse than
      using pastel board.
    • Fix between layers of pastel as you work, leaving the final layer unfixed.

    Fixing Experimental Work

    Experimental work can be fixed by using Artists’ Acrylic Matt Medium to hold down heavy layers or large particles of charcoal or pastel. Up to 10% water can be used to dilute the medium and reduce the thickness of the film applied but the more water you add the more the paper can cockle. Use a garden spray and keep the work horizontal whilst the acrylic dries.

    Suitable Framing Methods

     The fragile dusty surface of a finished pastel is best protected behind glass. Glazed frames should use a mount (mat) or spacer to ensure the glass is not against the picture. This will allow air to circulate and help to prevent condensation. Remember to fix the picture lightly before it goes into the frame; without fixing, pastel dust can build up on the inside of the glass as a result of static.

    Storing Unframed Pictures

    With a little care, pictures can be safely stored in portfolios if they are not yet to be framed. Firstly, apply a light coat of fixative for some initial protection. The main thing is to prevent the pictures from slipping against each other.

    Place each picture between a mountboard and a sheet of tissue paper and place in a loose portfolio or a folio sleeve. Continue stacking your work in this manner and if you don’t fill the portfolio by the end, do so with spare cardboard which will stop anything moving about inside.

    Acrylic Painting for Beginners

    How to Get Started Working with This Versatile Art Medium

    Acrylic is a popular medium choice for many different reasons. It is convenient because it dries quickly, making it easy to paint in layers or to transport your art without fear of smudges. It also doesn’t have a lingering smell and harmful fumes. One of the best features of acrylics, though, is that you don’t have to use solvents. This paint mixes with water and cleans up easily.

    Sounds great, doesn’t it? Here’s what you need to know to get started painting with this wonderful medium.

    Acrylics can give a painter a fabulous range of colours without having to buy many different tubes of paint. This is because acrylic paint mixes easily, without the worry of muddiness that you get with watercolours.

    To start with, you can generally have a basic palette of white, lemon yellow, raw sienna, yellow ochre, Chinese red, cadmium red, violet, ultramarine, cobalt blue, cerulean blue, bright green, monestial green and Hooker’s green.

    Did you notice that black wasn’t listed? This is because fantastic, interesting blacks can be made with acrylics by toying with different colour combinations. Try mixing violet with monestial green, for instance. This mix creates a complex black that you just can’t get out of a tube.

    Traditionally, oils are used somewhat thick, and watercolours are used thin. With acrylics you can do whatever you like. Use it straight out of the tube with a palette knife for an impasto feel, or add lots of water to get the look of watercolours. It is all up to you and the look you are going for.

    If you find that your acrylics are drying just too fast you can add what are called acrylic media. There are also acrylic media that can make acrylics thicker or more transparent. They just mix right into the paint like a

    Once again, it is up to you! Acrylic can be used on paper of all different types or on canvas. The only thing you really need to worry about is if the paper is archival.

    You can also use acrylic paints on painting boards. These are primed boards that are made especially for artwork, though some artists will cut their own Masonite boards to paint on. Many artists prefer painting boards to canvas because they are stiff and have no “give.”

    Washes are easy to achieve with acrylics because they dry so quickly and can be made by just mixing the paint with water. Squeeze your paint into a well pallet and add enough water so that the paint is very liquid when it is mixed. Use a wide brush to apply the wash to your surface. It will only take around five minutes for the wash to dry, and then you are free to apply the next wash.

    Acrylics really are a mix of the best qualities of oil and watercolours. Give it a try and you just might get hooked.

    How to Select Watercolor Brushes

    Select Watercolor Brushes

    Watercolor brushes can be expensive, but they are worth the investment. If well cared for, a good brush will last for years nad help you produce outstanding watercolor paintings and artwork. Here is how to find the perfect watercolor brush to enhance your artistic endeavors.

  • Buy brushes that are made specifically for use with watercolors, otherwise you will not be using the right brush for the job.

  • Decide whether to invest in synthetic brushes or brushes made of sable. Generally, synthetic brushes cost less, but you can purchase a higher-costing brush to produce quality watercolors. You can also check out watercolor brushes on sale.

  • Select two flat brushes. A 3/4-inch and a 1-inch are good brush sizes to start with.

  • Select three round brushes. A number 3, 6 and 10 will meet most of your painting needs.

  • Make sure round brushes have a fine point.

  • Buy the best brushes you can afford.





  • How to Care for Watercolor Brushes

    Care for Watercolor Brushes

  • Use watercolor brushes only with watercolor paints so you do not ruin the brushes.

  • Wet watercolor brushes before you start painting.

  • Set brushes in a brush holder or lay them down on the table while you are working. Do not set them in a jar or glass with the bristles pointing down.

  • Wash brushes using lukewarm water and a paintbrush cleaner or soap (not detergent).

  • Rinse brushes with the bristles pointing down.

  • Shake brushes to remove excess water instead of wiping them on a cloth or paper towel.

  • Re-form brush tips with your fingers.

  • Store brushes in a brush holder in a cool, dry place.



  • How to Clean Your Brushes After Using Oil Paints

    Dirty Paint Brushes

    Paint brushes can be an slippery, colorful mess after oil painting. Here’s a way to clean them up and keep them in good shape for future art works.

    First, wipe off any excess paint with dry rags. Oil paint is flammable, so the rags should either be immediately disposed of in an outside garbage can, or stored safely in an tightly sealed container.

    Oil paint is not water soluble, and brushes and tools must be cleaned with something that cuts oil—like turpentine. Turpentine can be reused over and over, and one way to make the best use of it is to build a simple brush wash. You’ll need a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid and a clean, short tin can, such as a tuna can or cat food cat, that fits inside the jar. Poke holes in the bottom of the can using a hammer and nail (pressing through the outside of the bottom, so that the rough edges are inside the can), then place the can inside the jar, with the open end pointing down, so as to create a false bottom.

    Fill the jar with turpentine to at least an inch or two above the top of the can. Now take your oily brushes and swirl them around in the turpentine, pressing the bristles lightly into the bottom of the can. The paint with sink to the bottom of the jar, leaving the turpentine above the can clear and ready for brush cleaning. Keep the jar tightly lidded when not in use.

    Now you need to clean the turpentine off your brushes. This can be done with castile soap and water, or you can use specially designed paintbrush cleaner, available at art supply stores. Fill a cup or jar with warm water, then soap up your brushes, rinsing and resoaping as often as needed, until your brushes are no longer oily and are free of pigment. (Although some pigments may stain your brushes, especially if you are using natural hair bristles. Don’t worry too much about this, so long as your brushes otherwise feel and smell clean.) Make sure to rinse the soap out completely.

  • Commercially available brush cleaner can also be used to condition and shape your brushes. Using clean suds, saturate the bristles and sculpt them into shape, allowing the suds to dry on the bristles.

  • Don’t forget to wash your hands well, too. You might want to use a special “painting only” towel to dry off, just in case there’s a little bit pigment left under your fingernails or behind your knuckles.

  • Dump out your rinse water, and allow your brushes to dry bristle end up. If you conditioned your brushes with brush cleaner, remember to brush out the dried suds before using the paintbrushes.




  • How to Clean Your Brushes After Using Watercolour Paints

    Clean Your Brushes After Using Watercolor Paints

    Watercolor paints are a delicate medium that can produce a variety of effects, and to get the best use out of them you need high quality brushes that are well taken care of. Here are some steps for cleaning your watercolor brushes and keeping them like new.

    As with other water-based media (such as gouache or acrylic), you’ll want to keep your brushes moist while you’re working, to keep the paint from drying on the brush and staining or deteriorating the bristles. The bristles on watercolor brushes are more fragile than those of other paint brushes, and the quality of a watercolor painting is dependent on the quality of the brushes. To keep the bristles from kinking, warping or bending, lay your brushes in a wide, shallow bowl filled with water in between color changes while you are painting. You might want to change the water a few times during the course of the painting, if it gets too muddy.

    When you’re ready to clean up, however, a cup, glass or jar is more convenient. Fill the glass with water, and one by one swish your brushes vigorously to rinse as much pigment out as possible. Try to avoid pressing the bristles up against the side of the glass, as this could damage them. Keep the other brushes lying flat or standing bristle end up in another cup.

    Lightly drag each brush across a bar of castile soap or brush cleaner (available at art supply stores), then gently suds up the bristles in the palm of your hand. Rinse well. Wash and rinse your brushes as often as needed until they are clean and free of pigment.

    Brush cleaner can also be used to condition and shape your brushes. Using clean suds and your fingertips, mold the bristles into shape and allow the brush cleaner suds to dry on the bristles. Remember to dust out the residue next time you use the brushes.

    Wash your hands well, too. You might want to use a special “painting only” towel to dry off, in case there’s a smudge of wet paint that you missed on the back of your hand.

    Allow your brushes to dry in an empty glass standing bristle end up.